Let's face
it; Itaewon hasn't always had the best reputation. Until recently,
there wasn`t much of a reason for a decent Korean to visit our
beloved foreigner`s ghetto. Nice Korean girls might do a bit
of bargain hunting at the shops in the daytime, but they wouldn`t
be caught dead in Itaewon after dark.
While
Itaewon still has it`s share of sleazy bars and otherwise
decadent establishments, the force of gentrification is rearing
its progressive head. A group of entrepreneurs have decided
that it`s time for Itaewon to change it`s unbecoming image.
While the upgrade has been slow going, there`s no denying
that somewhat of a renaissance has been taking place in and
near the back alley behind the Hamilton hotel.
It all
started with the restaurants. Benjamin Joinau, owner of the
French Restaurant Le Saint-Ex, foresaw an opportunity here
4 years ago. `When I thought about opening an authentic French
Bistro, I looked at all the different neighborhoods. Most
people eat at home in Banbae-dong. Hongdae wasn`t ready. Kwanhammun
is only good for lunch and Apkujong already has so many places.
I needed to find a place where there were enough French people
who could appreciate how French food is supposed to be made.
A lot of Koreans who wouldn`t even consider crossing the river
before are now coming to Itaewon to get an authentic taste
of International food.`
Micha
Richter, owner of Gecko`s Garden, has also seen similar changes.
` Surely Itaewon has changed in the past 5 years. Gecko`s
has been open that long and it was the first bar of its kind
in Iteawon. I believe a lot more Koreans are coming out to
give it a try. I think more Korean people will discover this
area as the country becomes more open-minded. Tastes are changing
and local people are getting more adventurous with food. I
believe Itaewon will become a melting pot eventually with
more Koreans involved in a good cultural mix.`
The future
of Itaewon is promising and the press is eager to shed a positive
light on the neighborhood. Not too long ago, Itaewon was designated
as a `Special Tourism Zone` and declared an `International
Shopping Area` by the government. The government is also doing
what it can to help Itaewon change it`s image. The public
bathrooms were upgraded, murals were painted, parades and
performances are regularly held on the street, and recently,
there has been a crackdown on prostitution in the area.
Santorini
Greek restaurant opened just this year in the back alley and
Chakraa Indian restaurant opened it`s 4th branch in the back
alley as well. In addition, two new restaurants are opening
the fall. The St. Ex owners are opening `La Plancha`, on Oct
29th right across from Le Saint Ex. La Plancha is described
as a new concept `French style barbecue lounge` where you
can order meat and skewers by weight or piece to compose your
own plate. It`s like in a butcher shop, but with a cozy atmosphere.
The La Tavola/ La Cigale empire will be opening a Wine Bar/
Creperie very soon in the back alley right behind La Tavola.
The building is under construction as I write this article.
The `Back
Alley` as it`s being called these days is breathing new life
into the Itaewon scene. With the help of the burgeoning restaurant
scene, Itaewon may manage to reinvent itself after all.
